Chef Adam Rivett took cooking tips from a perfume museum, writes Sheridan Rogers.

When chef Adam Rivett was touring France on a Queen's Trust grant nine years ago, he became intrigued by the history of perfume making at the PerfumeMuseum in Grasse on the French Riviera.

"I wanted to understand more about the structure of perfume. Its top, middle and base notes,” he says.

"And I was blown away by the history of 'enfleurage' which works on the principle that fats absorb smells, an ancient technique used in Egypt.

"The scent of delicate flowers like jasmine and tuberose can't be extracted through steam distillation. Instead, the petals are steeped in a mixture of lard and beef suet and the fat absorbs their scent. The fragrant oil is then extracted from the fat by dissolving it in an alcohol solvent."

That helped build on Rivett's understanding of how important fragrance and aroma are in food and wine appreciation and his search for great matches in food and wine.

Before his trip to France, Rivett, who hails from northeast Victoria, had worked in various disciplines. Starting as an apprentice chef at the Bank Restaurant in Beechworth, he moved to the King River Cafe in Oxlev, then deepened his knowledge of baking sourdough breads on his study tour of France.

On his return lie set up the Milawa Bakery, now run by his brother. Jav (ex Phillippa's in Melbourne), and his passion for food soon spread to wine and a Diploma of Wine Technology at Melbourne University.

During this time he worked as a casual chef at the Epicurean Centre at Brown Brothers' Milawa Vineyard and also as a cellar hand on a number of vintages. Early last year he was appointed head chef of the Epicurean Centre and it is there that you can experience his passion for food and flavours.

"We sit down four times a year and look at the wines available from the business." he says. "Then we look at the seasonal produce and what is available locally and put together our menus after playing around with the various components. I aim to make the matches either complementary or contrasting."

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Getting there: Milawa is 260km from Melbourne; about a three-hour drive.

Stay: Lindenwarrah Country House & Restaurant - the perfect destination for the food and wine lover, with 30 vineyards within 30 minutes, this five star boutique hotel is in the heart of Milawa. Its spacious rooms look out over vineyards, fountains and sunny courtyards. Bobinawarrah Rd, Milawa, call (03) 5720 5777, www.lindenwarrah.com.au

More: Wangaratta Visitors Information Centre, free call 1800 801065, email tourism@wangaratta.vic.gov.au or go to  www.brownbrothers.com.au